How to Fit Guttering

To establish the position of the running outlet or stopend outlet, hang a plumb bob from the fascia so that it hangs directly over the drain.

Use a pencil to mark the positioning of the outlet and its fixing holes onto the fascia, ensuring that it is no more than 50mm below the level of the roof.

Drill pilot holes then fit the outlet, being sure to use the screws recommended by the manufacturer and taking care not to over-tighten.

Measure from the outlet to around 100mm from the opposite end of the fascia. Position and fix a fascia bracket at this point, ensuring that it is higher than the outlet and the fall to the outlet is about 3mm per metre. If your outlet is situated in the middle of the fascia, repeat this process at both ends.

Tie a string or a brick line from the fascia bracket(s) to the outlet and pull it tight.

Using a spirit level, check that the string runs slightly downhill from the fascia bracket(s) to the outlet by roughly 3mm per metre.

From the fitted fascia bracket, measure and mark the position of the remaining brackets. They should be just touching the string to maintain an even fall and should be no more than 1m apart and no more than 150mm from any angle or stopend.

Fix the remaining fascia brackets as before, being sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and take care not to over-tighten.

Before fitting the guttering, lubricate the gutter seals with a silicone spray, as this will help to make fitting easier and will aid with expansion and contraction. Repeat this for all gutter seals as you go.

Working from the outlet towards the highest point, fit the first length of gutter by tilting it so that it sits beneath the back clip, then push down at the front to ‘snap’ it into position.

At the end of the first piece of guttering, fit a union bracket by screwing it into the fascia. Be sure to use the screws recommended by the manufacturer.

Fit the next section of gutter into the union bracket, being sure the joints line up with the insertion depth that is marked onto the fittings.

Continue to join the lengths of gutter in the same way.

Measure the final gap then, using a hacksaw, cut a piece of gutter to length.

Finally, fit an external stopend to complete the gutter run.

Using a plumb bob that hangs from the outlet to the drain as a guideline, draw several marks onto the wall to show where the downpipe will run.

Using a straight edge, join the marks to create a vertical line that shows where the centre of the downpipe will be.

If an offset is required, you can either use an adjustable offset bend or two offset bends and a short piece of pipe (if necessary). Ensure a 6mm gap is left at the top of the downpipe for expansion.

Starting at the top of the wall, position a downpipe pipe clip centrally over the pencil line. Use a pencil to mark the position of its fixing holes onto the wall. If offset bends are required, position a downpipe clip directly below the bend.

Repeat this process down the wall, allowing spacing of no more than 1.8m between pipe clips.

Using a combi drill and the drill bit size recommended by the manufacturer, drill the fixing holes and insert appropriate wall plugs.

Working from the outlet towards the drain, fit the first piece of downpipe.

If you need to add an additional length of downpipe, join the two parts with a downpipe pipe socket and pipe clip. To allow for expansion, leave a 10mm gap between the end of the pipe and the bottom of the pipe socket. Then attach a pipe clip over the joint.

Continue to attach the pipe clips down the length of the downpipe.

If required, fit a downpipe shoe to direct the flow into the drain. Attach a downpipe clip directly below the socket of the shoe.